Tag Archives: buenos aires

Cono Sur, Part III: Subiendo

This is the third in a four-part series. Part I | Part II

My first impressions of Buenos Aires are mixed. The drive in from the airport is a slog down an apartment-lined highway. Next, I am greeted by a massive protest on the Avenida 9 de Julio, the greatest of the many great porteño avenues, and my cab driver meanders the neighborhood of San Telmo in dismay. The universities of Buenos Aires have risen in rebellion, marching in blocs of matching shirts for their schools, decrying proposed funding cuts by the country’s radical new president. By this evening hour many are disassembling, but some are still pushing forward, chanting and singing, and others have settled under the Obelisco in the city center with beverages. Signage here and there advertises this and future protests, and the next morning, the cleaning crews are rolling through. Argentine protests spawn their own little economy.

When my taxi finally reaches my last second lodging choice for the night, I find my “Presidential Suite” truly unremarkable, a bare bones all-white room with a light that shines through a frosted glass door all night long. (Hey, it was 30-some bucks.) The walk to the ferry dock in the dark the next morning, mostly through an unremarkable office district, does not help. While the Casa Rosada and the Plaza de Mayo are interesting, against a threatening sky and a tight timeline two friends and I are not compelled to linger, and I find myself perhaps suffering from square fatigue after a month of Spanish urban form. (Now, writing from a land far from them, I crave another evening on one of those plazas.)

The grand avenues and plazas are deceiving. Buenos Aires is a gritty city, a metropolis that encompasses all walks of Argentine life. In this country the immigrants never had the chance to move to tract housing in Jersey. They came to places like the Palermo neighborhood, a rough-and-tumble borderland where city met pampa and where streetfighters paved the way for the tango. While in the US the cowboys were always somewhere off in the great western netherland, a legend now filled by projections, in Buenos Aires the gauchos drifted right in. There was no Midwestern buffer between the frontier and the cosmopolitan center of power, and that collision starkly defined the first century-plus of Argentine existence through near endless civil strife between federalists and nationalists. Pampa life was no distant myth here, and even as some of those dusty immigrant suburbs now gentrify, there is still a raw edge to this city.

Predictably, neither copying European high culture nor wallowing in gaucho hagiography has served Buenos Aires well. Certain political figures such as Juan Perón have, arguably, adopted the worst of both. “I want neither progressivism nor criollismo, in the way those words are commonly used,” writes Jorge Luis Borges in “The Full Extent of My Hope,” an essay that holds up a century later. “The first means subjecting ourselves to being almost-North-Americans or almost-Europeans, a tenacious being almost-others. The second, once a word of action…is today a word of nostalgia.” Buenos Aires is a stark collision between two very different worlds, and the nation it rules is still sorting out the twisting strands of those two great stories.

And yet, Buenos Aires is full of gifts from both inheritances, once one learns how to see it. Borges again: “Never have I given myself over to its streets without receiving some unexpected consolation, whether from feeling unreality, from guitars at the back of some patio, or from contact with other lives,” he writes on his city in Evaristo Carriego. In time, I come to understand his sentiment.

The city starts to open up to me when I turn over tour guide duties to my friend Andrew, who studied abroad here. We visit the San Telmo market, an endless string of vendors on a narrow street through a bustling neighborhood of the same name, a delight of maté paraphernalia, art, cookware, Messi and Mafalda swag, CBD brownies, and any other effect one may find necessary. Instead of musicians, tango dancers do the busking; the garb of choice appears to be tracksuits for Boca Juniors, the working-class soccer superpower. Here is a city teeming with life, crowded and edgy, filled with inheritors of the gaucho tradition, even in a metropolis those forerunners would never know.

And then there is the dream of what can be. We tour the Palacio Barolo, a grand office building near the Argentine Congress whose 1920s builders created an homage to Dante: hell in its ornate main hall gilded with gargoyles and dragons, purgatory in the office spaces, and an ascent to paradise in the narrow tower at the top, which culminates in a cupola with a series of balconies and, two floors above that, a glass lighthouse turret that can hold ten vertiginous people for 360-degree views of Buenos Aires at sunset. The city rolls out in every direction, denser than in Borges’ day but aglow in the night, bustling with beauty. As we go about our tour up and down narrow stairs and 1920s elevators, a man dressed as Dante pops up here and there to read cantos from the Divine Comedy, a very Latin American melodramatic flourish that nonetheless sheds light on the vision behind this building.

The day after the wedding, Andrew, his wife Kara, and I spend the night in Palermo Soho, a trendy neighborhood of tree-lined narrow streets and hipster shops. Borges was born here, and many of the low-slung turn of the century buildings remain, enlivened with brilliant color and elaborate mural art, along with some jarring modern additions. Dinner for the three of us plus old roommate Tim is at Don Julio, rated by some critics as the greatest steakhouse on earth. I am in no position to measure it against the competition, but by 1:30 in the morning when our night there is done, I am in no mood to doubt the claim. The butterflied sirloin melts in my mouth, a malbec and a cabernet franc wash it down, the pumpkin and cheese plates just add life, and despite being overstuffed I will indeed have the dulce de leche ice cream for dessert, thank you very much. Food is an art form here, tradition and inventiveness brought together with utmost care. We drift the few blocks back to the Miravida Palermo Soho, a boutique hotel where I have somehow wound up with the lofted penthouse room with a terrace wrapping around two sides of the building. I end my night blissed out on meat and wine, and I say goodnight to my friends and catch the last snippets of revelry in Palermo on the streets below. I rose to a paradise twice in one night.

A confession: I have spent too much of my life in a state of status anxiety. I’ve long run in circles adjacent to considerable wealth and power and enjoyed some of their benefits while never really holding them myself, a position that provides both great fortune through the access it allows and a nonstop sense that I am somehow falling short, have somehow chosen poorly and consigned myself to being a passenger on the grand plans of others. This feeling is exacerbated by certain habits of the current American upper middle class, which include an eternal instinct to downplay any advantages one does enjoy, a sustained myth of equal footing that does not always play out in reality. Too often have I measured myself against opaque but daunting measures of success, queasily collecting Pell grants or opting out of some activities because I cannot afford them, struggling to find the right balance between a knee-jerk frugality and a desire to experience everything my peers are, if not more. It fosters a lingering sense that, no matter how meticulous I have been, I am not quite ready to launch.

Lately, however, I have been able to allow myself a few more flourishes like this terrace at the Miravida Palermo Soho, and I can at least put up the appearance without feeling false. A small achievement, perhaps, but one freighted with some meaning. The ability to move between worlds is a lesson from Georgetown, a recognition that we can contain multitudes, can aspire to snippets of the best of all the worlds we brush through instead of feeling chained to one. I catch myself over dinner in some grumble over my ability to live in certain ways from my perch in Duluth, but on this balcony, I can write that strain away.

Belonging is not a matter of money or title. It is a matter of taste, a matter of belief, of seizing opportunities when they arise. In the grand scheme those things may be small. It is also dependent on finding the right people, and that is by no means small. But here, on a balcony in Buenos Aires, I rest assured that there is nothing false in certain dreams, that a certain life is within my grasp. It is up to me to seize it.

Part four is here.

Cono Sur 2024, Part I: Un Destino

This is the first in a four-part series.

There are ways to celebrate and then there are ways to celebrate. Take, for example, the idea to hold a wedding 5,000 miles from home, to bring over 70 people from your life to a sprawling country estate in Argentina. The clouds lift just in time for the outdoor ceremony beneath an arch shrouded in flowers, emotions flowing at self-written vows. After that all your guests are strewn across a lawn for a garden party. Drinks appear, along with some particularly vigorous fiddlers; off in a corner, an asado grill churns out the meat, which wafts over and sticks to the guests. By nightfall the wedding party settles beneath a tent laced with golden lights, where each guest’s name plate includes a personalized appreciation. First dances draw tears, speeches turn to roasts, fog machines erupt and the DJ carted in from Boston churns out the best hits of 2012 for over four hours. We dance, we sweat, we wave around glow sticks and don ridiculous Argentine soccer swag. The estancia is aglow as the backdrop, reflected in a small pond, and when the feet are sore and the livers protest, it invites everyone in to sit in the drawing room’s enveloping couches and drift toward sleep. Dreams and reality blur.

I am in Argentina to celebrate Phil, one of my college roommates, and Jess, a friend from that era who went on to become more than a friend. He grew up in Schaumburg, Illinois, not far from my Chicago area relatives, and his easy Midwestern style remains contagious. On R Street, Phil occupied the basement lair, emerging for video games on the couch or nights out in DC or to tutor local students and occasionally for class too. The Tuesday trivia host at The Tombs most certainly knew who he was, and if Georgetown’s honor were challenged by invaders from Syracuse, he would rise to the challenge. He brought a good party with him everywhere.

Phil possesses an endless spontaneity and willingness to try just about any new thing. This does not always go well, but it brings collective fun when his schemes work and collective humor when they don’t. His college era shenanigans matured into a hunger for travel and United Airlines status. (Perhaps someday he will share his secrets over how he has gotten that company to not treat him like a heap of dung.) The old Phil is still very much around, though, as anyone who was taken on his wild goose chase for the utterly remarkable biscuits from a generic New Orleans chain named Willie’s can attest. His loose humor is a gift from his mother, as I learned from her savage send-up over dinner, a blend of pride and good-natured ribbing that summed up Phil perfectly.

From the outside Phil could make it look easy, shrugging off any nerves and from there quickly learning what he liked and disliked professionally. But there is a design here. He meets challenges with honest examinations, seeks the counsel of good friends, and possesses an uncommon tenderness that manifests as a strength. It is not hard to see how Jess, a star of the business school at Georgetown, could fall for him, and how they could come together as a well-complemented power couple. Jess can live as large as Phil but insists upon reasonable bedtimes and good life decisions, a diligence evident in the wedding planning, where her remarkable skill in pulling things and people together in a land far, far away shined through every time I took a moment to consider another aspect of what went into it.

Phil and Jess’s wedding is indeed on point: big, loud, no detail missed. It begins with a welcome lunch, which I miss because I am inbound on a ferry from Uruguay, and it proceeds from there to a welcome dinner at the Four Seasons in Recoleta, the swanky core of Buenos Aires. Guests stride up the streets in their finery, old college friends appear here and there, and the energy swells. After we mill about with drinks for a spell, a pair of tango dancers emerge, and they leave us in awe: feinting and swinging, pulsing with sexual energy, physiques perfectly tuned. From there we are seated for what becomes the first of five straight days of steak dinners for me. The buses then carry the wedding party out to the estancia, and we proceed from there.

At Estancia Villa Maria the wedding guests are split between the main villa, the neighboring Casa Francesa, and a series of more modern houses developed a short distance away. The older buildings are endearing in their old-world opulence; over the course of the weekend I hear allusions to Downton Abbey, Bridgerton, and Clue. I join the groomsmen in the Casa Francesa, where I shack up with my old roommate Trent and his wife Kelly in a suite that includes a balcony off the shower. Brunch is communal on both our days at the estancia, a gentle blurring of friend groups as we sip maté and nibble on pastries, gaze out at the polo ground beyond. At times it is hard to believe this is real.

This wedding is a spectacle without sacrificing intimacy, aided by an Argentine culture that enjoys going for it without any reservations. Phil bawls through a substantial portion of the ceremony, which is both predictable and endearing, and he and Jess can laugh through it and bring us along for the ride. Not once did this adventure feel gratuitous or attention-seeking; it was two people doing a wedding exactly as they wanted, with the people wanted, in a way that made it a party for everyone. Twice over the course of the wedding night, when I need a bathroom, I take the long stroll across the lawn to the house instead of using the convenient port-a-potty so I can savor the night and approach the tent in reverence, drink it in before a new tune inspires me to bolt back to the dance floor. Those two late nights, with nightcaps on the couches as the crowd dwindles, show how deep ties can be over space and time.

I will need to return to Phil and Jess’s Bed-Stuy brownstone before long, and someday we will make our planned pilgrimage to Chippewa Falls, Wisconsin. But for now, I will make sure this wedding to end all weddings is seared into my memory like a good Argentine steak on a grill, a rare meat indeed. What a delicacy, to have been brought along for this ride.

Part two is here.